"C'est la plante et non la chimie qui fait le vin." Thierry Germain
Sunday, November 7, 2010
The UK wine press on natural wine
The subject of natural wine is preoccupying us all at the moment. Here are recent articles from Jancis Robinson, Antony Rose and a trio of videos from Simon Woods of Drinking Outside the Box. And a link to my column in yesterday's Guardian.
Having looked at several merchant's "natural wine" lists I find that the growers I'm surrounding by and have been drinking for years (in a few cases nearly 20 years) keep cropping up. Mas Jullien, Alain Chabanon, Aupilhac, Terrasse d'Elise, Clovallon, Fons Sanatis, Grange 4 Sous, Malavieille, Mas Gabriel, Mas Conscience for a start.
I've concluded that this is a terminology and marking exercise by merchants and journalists who live in distant cities. I've absolutely no problem with that and accept I have to put up with a bit of a limited wine life.
For the Languedoc this may be a big way forward as "natural wine" carries much less marketing baggage than "Languedoc" or even "Sud de France". On the broader front it will hopefully help more consumers seek out growers wines. We'll know natural wines have arrived when the big corporations think there's money in making and marketing them.
Absolutely agree Graham. It's interesting how often the wines one's been drinking for years turn out to be described as 'natural' these days. Even if the winemakers don't categorise them this way. But all to the good if people end up being more thoughtful about the wines they drink.
Having looked at several merchant's "natural wine" lists I find that the growers I'm surrounding by and have been drinking for years (in a few cases nearly 20 years) keep cropping up. Mas Jullien, Alain Chabanon, Aupilhac, Terrasse d'Elise, Clovallon, Fons Sanatis, Grange 4 Sous, Malavieille, Mas Gabriel, Mas Conscience for a start.
ReplyDeleteI've concluded that this is a terminology and marking exercise by merchants and journalists who live in distant cities. I've absolutely no problem with that and accept I have to put up with a bit of a limited wine life.
For the Languedoc this may be a big way forward as "natural wine" carries much less marketing baggage than "Languedoc" or even "Sud de France". On the broader front it will hopefully help more consumers seek out growers wines. We'll know natural wines have arrived when the big corporations think there's money in making and marketing them.
Absolutely agree Graham. It's interesting how often the wines one's been drinking for years turn out to be described as 'natural' these days. Even if the winemakers don't categorise them this way. But all to the good if people end up being more thoughtful about the wines they drink.
ReplyDelete